Brescia-Rome-Brescia, 15th - 18th of June, 2022 |
It would take another 20 years until the MM first got my attention. Although surrounded by classic car fans
in the family it was not until 1997 that I attended my first MM with a borrowed camera to take some snaps
of the cars in Brescia. Little did I know about vintage sports cars and less did I know about taking pictures
but that may made me fall in love with the sound of the pre-war Alfas, the smell of the Castrol racing
oil in the Bugatti, the screaming of the Mercedes-Benz superchargers or the 12-cylinder sound of the
racing Ferraris along with the hoard of Etceterinis rarely seen on other events. Since that day I was
back in every edition trying to better my photography skills and cover the event as a whole rather than
standing just road side waiting for the cars to pass on the Passo Futa or the historic city centre of San
Marino. Now after 25 years outside the MM I decided it was time to fulfil a long-time dream to actually
experience the MM as an entrant. |
On Monday 13th of June, I made my way down to Brescia to meet up the team and my driver Adriano who I
would spend the next days with in his little Lancia Augusta from 1933, the oldest of the Scuderia cars
entered. A small 1.2 litre engine producing about 40 hp in what Britons would call a pillarless saloon
certainly did not equal Louis Klemantaski’s experience as Peter Collins navigator in the 1957 race but still it
promised plenty of fun. |
After that we headed to the city centre of Brescia to take part in the Roberto Gaburri Trophy as a warm up for
the actual “race”, a short special stage over the pressure tubes up to the Castello in Brescia on Monday
evening. Never done any of the regularity trial before I certainly was not a major held to the effort of my driver
but with the computers programmed fortunately, he was able to do most of the work on his own. |
Tuesday morning, we were back at the Fiera were most of the cars were stored to get the police escort at
the given time to the Piazza Vittorio in the historic city centre of Brescia for the sealing. In the first years
the entire scrutineering process was done at the Piazza but the annual chaos and the increasing number of
cars brought most of it to the Fiera where things are much easier to handle. |
20 years ago, all the cars were parked on the various piazzas including the Piazza della Loggia or in front of
the cathedral for what Italians call a “grande casino” (=huge chaos). Today the cars are told to leave the
piazza pretty soon so very few entrants parked in the streets, most making their way back to the Fiera or to
the hotel. We went to the Porsche Experience Centre for lunch and for a testing session for the pressure
tubes. Fortunately, Adriano had mercy with my photography needs and we made it back to the Piazza
Vittoria to see a few more cars that we would not see on the road later. |
Wednesday finally was the day of departure and we all met at the Museo Mille Miglia for a last lunch in
Brescia before going over the famous ramp at the Viale Venezia. Our starting time was 14:12 for the first leg
towards Ferrara, formerly the finish of the first day when the cars still started Thursday evening. With the
prolonged first day we had a little bit longer to drive direction Rimini. |
After leaving the ramp the first meters led through the row of people gracing the streets of Brescia to do the
first regularity trial again up the hill to the Castello. We then passed the Piazza Loggia and Vittoria before
leaving Brescia in direction of Lago di Garda. Right at the end of the Pentecost holidays the Lago di Garda
usually is packed with visitors and so the Mille Miglia saw masses of spectators on this first leg. After getting
our first stamp in Salo and a few more pressure tube trials we went along the lake through Desenzano and
Sirmione were we collected more stamps. The Mille Miglia does not only feature the pressure tube trials
where you are intended to drive a given distance in between two tubes at a given time but also regularity trial
was the distance and an average speed is given that has to be driven. While at most of the pressure tube
trials, the cars are actually faster than the intended average speed and wait some meters in front of the tube
in designated waiting areas the average requires a constant driving. Fortunately, today technology with GPS
allows the computer to signal the average speed at any time and so the driver “only” has to drive according to
the display. On the first of these regularity trial, we actually manage the get it to 100% of the display only to
figure out that the computer was programmed with the wrong average, 38 km/h instead of 42 km/h which also
explains why others drove faster... But as the ambitions are relative and the pleasure is intended to come first
this cannot lessen the mood in the car. |
After leaving the lake area we went south towards the Parco Giardino Sigurta, a beautiful garden to drive
through and a photographer’s dream. Further south we went through Mantua, known as the home town of
one of the Mille Miglia greats, Tazio Nuvolari. Used as a lunch stop in the past but this time only a stamp
point the Piazza Sordello was much less crowded than in the past. We arrived in Ferrara at the Castello to
have dinner in the wonderful Teatro Claudio Abbado, the best location for a dinner one could imagine. |
Thursday started with another morning in glorious weather. For some open car the weather might have been
even to sunny and hot but fortunately we had a roof to protect us from the sun and the fold-out windscreen
gave us some fresh air. 6:52 am was our starting time after a decent sleep and we were off to the Italian
capitol, the traditional and current turning point of the MM. After passing Forli we went towards San Marino,
one of the most visited spots during the Mille Miglia. After climbing up the hill for another special stage we
passed the historic town centre below instead of going all the way up. What was a little bit disappointing for
the spectators as well as for me certainly helped the cars as going up in the usual traffic around the narrow
serpentines in the historic centre in these hot conditions would have stressed the little Lancia as well as the
racers following us. |
We then arrived in Urbino for a small coffee break and the bar opposite to the waiting area certainly made a lot
of business that day but also generated hectic as there was not enough waiting time for us to make it in time
to the time control. After Urbino we left the east-coast and went inland toward Lago Maggiore where we had
the lunch stop in Passignano sul Trasimeno. Beautifully located at the lake a buffet was served outdoors and
the Italian gelato gave some cooling down at least for the crews. After farewell with local folklore, we headed
towards the Autodromo di Magione greeted by the bust of another famous Italian racer, Mario Umberto
Borzacchini. Unfortunately, soon after the cracking sound from the back axle reappeared and another stop
was due. This time it was not the wheel itself but the chromed disc that held the wheel in place and also
served as ornament. Fortunately, we were able to drive without them and so we continued but we were
running late at that time. People often refer to the Mille Miglia as a parade of the beauties but this very much
depends on the car. When you have a powerful post-war car, the average is easy to achieve but when you are
running at 40 hp every delay means you are in a hurry for the next time control. With the delay for the repair,
we were just on the edge of the timing and approaching Terni it became obvious that we were in a hurry. As
Adriano was still confident to make it in time, we followed the Police into Terni and speeded up, the passage
through Terni may have earned my driver the nickname “Stirling” but it was also nerve wrecking to sit in the
passenger seat seeing the little Lancia flying through the city. We just managed to arrive in time and with less
than two minutes to go we made it to the front of the line to get our time stamp at 19:12 just as intended.
After a short stop Adriano handed me the car to calm down and my first miles as a driver in the MM were in a
beautiful alley surrounded by a bunch of Oscas and two Ferrari towards a sunset into Rome. |
Before Rome we changed again and prepared the car for the arrival in the night. Adriano fitted a separate
LED light to the front to add to the spare original lighting and I cleaned the windscreen for some
unobstructed views when driving into the eternal city. As there were no time penalties for arriving early, we
took the ramp in between several Ferrari and my favourite car of the weekend, the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL
prototype. |
Day three might be the biggest difference between the “old” MM storico and the new concept. Whereas the
third days was also the last and longest day in the past going all the way up to Brescia we now were only half
in the rally. Once again at about 7am we left Rome from the Parco di Medici towards Radicofani, the first leg
of the day. Unfortunately, soon after leaving Rome behind us the car started to misbehave, either it did not get
enough fuel or the ignition was off but the car started to stutter and lacked a few of the 40 horses. So, we had
to do another service although the mechanics checked the car over the evening before without finding any
problems. The search for the problem took a while and so we ended up with very much a completely new
ignition including new plugs. The car then went off like nothing ever happened and we were happy to be still in
the race. As we were already passed by cars in the region of the numbers past 300 there was no way to
make it in time to the time control at Radicofani so we took it more relaxed. In Viterbo Adiano still started to
speed up and passed a few cars in traffic very much to the annoyance of some of the officials who thought it
might have been too much even for MM standards and so we had to endure a lecture before we were allowed
to drive on. The next part of the journey was too good to be raced through anyway as the passing of the Lago
di Bolsena on unpaved roads and the approach of Radicofani might be the most beautiful part of the entire
MM. I remembered countless of spots where I stood over the years to take pictures and yet I was astonished
to see so few of my colleagues around, it seems that less of them followed this year’s edition on the road.
Finally, we came to Radicofani after accepting our time penalty for late check-in and we got a new starting
time. What was not so good for the classification was certainly good for me as now we were among a group
of later cars giving a few different motives from the day before. |
Radicofani was a little bit disappointing this year. Normally the stairs in front of the small church are
somewhat like a natural stand but this time only a handful of people waited for the cars. Overall, it has to be
said that on some places this year’s edition lacked a little bit of audience whereas other places were
packed. |
Out of Viareggio we enjoy the police escort and the presence of a few interesting cars on our way to Parma.
After the last special stage of the day, we drove into the most incredible sunset on basically deserted roads
before our final destination of the day. As the wheel cracking reappeared just before the finish the service
was on duty again over night. To safe the last wheel for any case the attempt was to give the cracked wheel
a welding to get some miles out of it. |
So, when we left Parma for the last leg the premiss was to drive without to many loads in the corners to safe
the wheel. This worked pretty well in the beginning until we arrived at the test track of Dallara for the special
stage. The car in front of us actually managed to get lost on a race track and then re-passed us screwing up
two sectors of the tube trial. After that the caution was a little bit gone and just at the beginning of the next
regularity the noise reappeared. So, we finished the stage and stopped to check the wheel and were a little bit
shocked about the cracks and wholes we saw, the wheel certainly wouldn´t have last much longer. So, with
the help of one of the technical support cars of the MM (as we were in a stage were the assistenza was
detoured) and their proper jack and torque spanner the last of the spare wheels was attached and this was
intended to get us over the finish line. The next miles were rather uneventful when even the police were not
able to help us any more in the traffic jam towards Monza for the final trial on the autodromo and a last lunch
in the paddocks. Right at the end of the MM we once again experienced “grande casino” as the exit of the
race track was rather narrow with upcoming traffic giving the marshals a hard time to get the waiting cars to
the time control in their given time while other cars were still coming in. Now we were already on the final of
the 1000 miles and although the finish approached with the prospect of becoming a “finisher” of this year’s
MM there was also a bit of melancholy that it was about to end. |
Finally, at 16:49 on Saturday our Mille Miglia officially ended with handing over the papers for the last stamp
of the event. The Unuci Squadra Corse lined up for the last time to follow the police in a group to the final
chapter of the rally, the arrival at the ramp on Viale Venezia were it all started 4 days prior. Being welcomed
on stage we got our finisher medal and drove off, a last time through the row of spectators who welcomed
us back in Brescia. |
So, what it is like to drive the Mille Miglia? If you ask entrants, they will all agree that it is exciting and that
it is a blast to chase behind the police through Italy. Many will tell you that the love of the Italians for all
machines moving fast and the design of the various coachbuilder is unique in the world making the
atmosphere incomparable to any other rally. A few of the seasoned entrants might remark that the quality of
cars is not the same as it was 25 years ago, the enthusiasm might be also a little bit less and the
excitement and exhaust from the drive all the way up from Rome to Brescia might be missed by some. But
apart from that different people on the different ends of the fields might tell you very different impressions. |
Next year I will be back roadside to take pictures but with the memory to once have competed in the “most
beautiful race in the world” |